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By Heidi Quill , Jessie Atkinson and Adam Cheung
Presenting GQ’s ultimate guide to buying a men’s suit. Whether you’re in the market for a linen, cotton or wool suit, we’ve got you covered...
Every man should have a suit in his wardrobe. There, we’ve said it. There really is no exception. Gay Talese, former journalist at the New Yorker, once said, “Putting on a beautifully designed suit elevates my spirit, extols my sense of self and helps define me as a man to whom details matter”, and it will do the exact same for you. Even if you don’t work in a job that demands one. Whether you need a suit for a wedding, job interview or funeral, it’s likely you’ll need a smart, tailored look at least once a year.
And, sure, while a decent suit will make you feel a million dollars (figuratively speaking), with so many suits out there, chances are you could fall flat and end up looking pretty awful. Every leading style figure has at one time or another donned a suit, whether it’s Harry Styles or Donald Glover (and, to be honest, they know how to get it right).
With that in mind, we thought it was about time we compiled the ultimate GQ guide to suits. So whether you’re in the market for a wool suit fit for the winter months or a wedding suit that won’t break the bank, we can (and will) help you out. Don't hesitate, thinking you may not be able to afford any of the suits below, either. We’ve got you covered with the best suits for men, no matter your budget.
For your typical wedding, formality should be at the forefront of your mind. “A versatile, ever-smart-suit-that-flatters-your-proportions three-piece suit” is the best option and the one that Ben Clarke, head cutter at Richard James, suggests men go for. If there is a colour scheme, it’s best to stick to it. If in doubt, a plain mid-grey will go with anything, while navy is versatile and flatters all complexions. If you do decide to opt for a three-piece suit, then always remember that when wearing a waistcoat, there is no time or place for a belt.
“Sunny-weather weddings lend themselves to more casual styles in lighter tones with softer constructions (less padding and canvasses). Soft linens, cottons and summer wool frescos all come into play during the summer,” explains Clarke.
And while a wedding itself may break the bank, your suit doesn’t need to. Whether you head to high-street favourite Marks & Spencer or Alexander McQueen, there is something to suit every budget, without compromising on the fit.
With the turn of summer comes the ability to change up your suiting. Summer suits, when put in contrast to their winter-friendly compatriots, should be lighter, cut from more porous fabrics (such as linen, silk or fine merino wool), and styled in pale, sun-reflecting shades to reflect the warmer climes. You could even go down the route that John Legend favours and go for suits in vibrant shades such as yellow and purple.
You also have the opportunity to play around a little more when wearing a summer suit – perhaps by switching out a shirt for a vest (as Harry Styles and Kanye West like to do) or by going shirtless completely, as seen on the catwalks of Louis Vuitton and Dior.
Sure, you might not be a fan of the cooler weather that the winter months bring, but there is one good thing about it: you get to wear a wool suit. Softer and therefore more wearable than tweed, it is a happy medium between comfort, style and warmth, making it our go-to between the months of October and March (give or take a few, remembering we still live in temperamental Britain). Essentially, wool is a better idea than lighter alternatives in the cooler months because you won't have to cover up all that excellent tailoring under a coat.
Wool is also a good idea because, rather than its polyester counterpart, it is less damaging to the environment. When you want it to, wool will biodegrade in a matter of months, without causing microfibre or plastic pollution. It’s a win-win (unless, of course, you try to wear it in a heatwave).
Hawes & Curtis wool suit
A linen suit is a warm-weather must-have. Lightweight and loose, the mighty linen suit tends to be constructed in flax fibre with an extremely low thread count (fine cotton tends to be around 200, with a fine linen around 80-150), which means it is a lot lighter than other suits (the wool suit, in particular). If you have any business obligations that take you to warmer climes, then the linen suit should be a bit of a staple.
Whether you wear a linen suit for a formal day look with a pair of sandals and an open, linen shirt (Chris Hemsworth does this well), or wear it with a crisp white shirt and tie, you can guarantee that a sweaty back will be furthest from your mind.
Historically, the lounge suit was the less formal version of morning dress or morning suit. Today, however, that has changed. Ben Clarke suggests that “these days, I would say that a lounge suit is simply a suit of two or three pieces that has each been cut from the same cloth. After the Second World War the waistcoat rather disappeared because of cloth rationing and so the two-piece lounge suit was born.”
The lounge suit, as we know it today, is something of an umbrella term, covering both two- and three-piece suits. When you read a dress code on an invitation that reads “lounge suit” rather than “cocktail attire” you can expect that your office suit is more than up to scratch, rather than tailored eveningwear.
Essentially, most suits you see on the high street or in the office are lounge suits. The colour, style and shape preferences are up to you.
While you can find some great tailoring on the high street right now, chances are an off-the-peg fit will always be a little off (unless you’re built to model-sized specifications, of course). If you're looking for something truly perfect, made-to-measure is your best bet.
Made-to-measure suits are typically taken from a ready-made fit pattern and then altered by a tailor to fit you, meaning the finished garment will be fully customised to your body and style. If you’re looking for a suit that fits like a glove, then you’re probably going to want to go down the made-to-measure route.
Nowadays, most brands offer a made-to-measure service, from Paul Smith to Gieves & Hawkes.
If you have a black-tie event, then you’re going to need a dinner suit. The classic tuxedo (AKA the penguin suit) is sharp, fitted, and comes in a range of styles with small tweaks. A traditional dinner suit comes with a single-breasted jacket with jetted pockets. Typically, it features peak lapels or shawl collar, which are equally authentic and correct and usually come in silk, satin or grosgrain. Notched lapels aren’t seen as typically acceptable for a black-tie event.
Today, the dinner suit has come a long way from its 19th-century origins and the red carpet at awards ceremonies have become awash with different variations. The blue tux is a popular option (Tyler, the Creator and Donald Glover favour a more colourful-hued suit). Then there's the bolder, mismatched tux; a look which the likes of Timothée Chalamet is a fan of, donning black slim-fitting trousers with a patterned dinner jacket.
There is also the white jacket dinner suit. The rules of white tie are akin to those of black – just make sure everything fits and avoid notched lapels (a bow tie is customary).
With all that in mind, below we have picked the best suits you can get your hands on right now, to fit any occasion...
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Percival's foray into suiting is a clever one. The brand, beloved by celebs from Tom Holland to Ryan Reynolds, offers a louche take on tailored ensembles – a current shoutout going to this green houndstooth set. Lightweight upon wear thanks to its deconstructed status, it's detailed with a satin sleeve lining, internal pockets and shirt grip across the trouser waistband. FYI, both ingredients currently have 20 per cent off, so be sure to add them to your basket before it's too late. Jacket, £259 £207. Trousers, £139 £111. At percivalclo.com
While most suits are made from wool or linen or – if you’re extra fancy – cashmere, the Mansfield by Oliver Spencer goes down a more Old Hollywood route with this velvet masterpiece. Dipped in a rich emerald green hue, it’s fitted with narrow peak lapels and soft shoulders that look effortless and elegant at the same time. It’s also available in a bunch of other colour options, but this one is our fave. £480. At mrporter.com
From Tommy guns to Gomez, you never really know what image pinstripes are going to conjure. Thankfully, this single-breasted number from Cos reimagines the style for a sleek, chic, image that leaves those of 1920s-era cartoon gangsters behind. Jacket, £225. Trousers, £135. cos.com
Salmon pink doesn’t just go well on toff’s cords and ladies’ cocktail dresses. As Paul Smith demonstrates with its latest dabbling in colourful two-piece design, this satin lapel evening set puts the striking shade to excellent use. Jacket, £1,300 £910. Trousers, £360 £252.
The ultimate suit for the baggy-loving gent, Arket's semi-constructed number is undeniably modern, but deeply infused with '90s-era boxiness. In keeping with this mood, we'd style it with a crisp white dress shirt, chunky brogues, no tie. Jacket, £249. Trousers, £119. arket.com
If you’re looking for something that’s not so tailored and not so traditional, hit up Valentino Garavani right now. While the Milanese house does, indeed, make traditional suits, this one is a little more casual, with a design that’s heavily influenced by the workwear trend. It’s also got three big pockets across the front of the jacket for all of those tools that you probably won’t be using. Jacket, £1,950. Trousers, £1,150. At matchesfashion.com
Hero of the high street, you might be surprised to hear that H&M can also be relied on for an excellent piece of budget-friendly suiting; but you really shouldn't be. This unstructured two-piece is designed for a shruggish, loose fit, bringing a touch of laissez-faire to your formal events. Jacket, £64.99. Trousers, £34.99. hm.com
Searching for an all-black suit that’s simple, sleek, and seriously sophisticated? Well, Prada’s got exactly what you’ve been dreaming of. Taking a break from its ever-popular Re-Nylon pieces, this one is tailored with a soft wool and mohair combination. It’s very clean, very Italian, and very Prada. Pair this with a complementary tie and some sleek, well-polished Oxfords to complete the look. Jacket, £2,800. Trousers, £900. prada.com
If you’re ballin’ on a budget and you’re looking for something that won’t break the bank, Marks & Spencer has got your back. Giving your formal fits some extra spice, this suit boasts a unique check pattern that’s both classic and contemporary at the same time. While this two-piece is skinny, the material is actually pretty stretchy. So if you’ve had a little extra for lunch, that’s not something that you need to worry about. Jacket, £85. Trousers, £45. At marksandspencer.com
Gucci has been making suits for well over one hundred years, so you can bet that they know a thing or two about designing some of the finest ones out there. For this iteration, it’s crafted from a hard-wearing canvas construction and is completely covered in the iconic Horsebit motif throughout. The prestigious “Gucci 1921 Metamorfosi” label is also stitched on the cuff, nodding to the Italian house’s deep sartorial roots. Jacket, £2,550. Trousers, £1,000. gucci.com
A true wardrobe staple, this exquisite black suit from Hawes & Curtis is one that every single guy should own. Made from some of the finest Super 100s pure wool known to man, it’s completely lined along the inside, and it’s equipped with a welt breast pocket and two straight pockets on either side with flaps. It’s very well–priced as well, so you can look a million dollars without having to pay a million dollars. Jacket, £209. Trousers, £120. hawesandcurtis.com
Demonstrating Dunhill's knack for stylish suits, the Belgravia is crafted in Italy from a sumptuous wool and cashmere-blend, and is decorated with contrasting pinstripes throughout. Notch lapels offer up a classic look and feel, while matte black buttons fasten everything. Rock this with a crisp white dress shirt and a pair of chunky Derbys and you’re good to go. Jacket, £2,195. Trousers, £695. At matchesfashion.com
Only the debonair should apply within Charles Tyrwhitt for this slice of luxe Italian velvet. This navy jacket — a more flattering and wearable shade than traditional evening black — may not come with “matching” trousers, but the textural riot of the cotton velvet is better suited to a more discreet trouser situation anyway. We recommend trying these moleskin slim-fits. Jacket, £249.95. Trousers, £99.95.
Even though Gabriela Hearst has only been in the sartorial scene since 2015, it has achieved more in the past nine years than most brands do in their entire lifetimes, and it’s thanks to things like the Irving suit. Cut from wool to a single-breasted front, it’s painted in a clean clay brown colour scheme that’s guaranteed to turn heads wherever you go. Jacket, £2,250. Trousers, £940. matchesfashion.com
Theory’s 2 for £300 function is just another positive in a long line of them, making this set of ponte pieces some of our most reached-for affordable suiting. Coming in a muted kaleidoscope of neutrals — taupe, khaki, navy — the Theory straight leg chino-style/single-breasted jacket combo is a wardrobe shoo-in (potentially several times over). Jacket, £355 £241. Trousers, £185.
Searching for a black suit to last for the long run? Jil Sander has got you covered. Evidencing the brand’s mastery of minimalism, this single-breasted set is impeccably tailored from a wool-gabardine blend – cleanly shaped into a sharp and straight fall. Whether you're heading to a day at the office or a formal, post-work occasion, this suit will see you through anything, making it one of the smartest additions to your wardrobe. Buy less, buy better. £2,480 £1,116. At matchesfashion.com
Seeking to make a statement? No problem. AllSaints' 'Raides' suit boasts a rogue but suave Bordeaux-red hue that'll turn heads and steal hearts. You've been warned. Jacket, £209. Trousers, £74. allsaints.com
Synonymous with serious luxury, Italian sartorial master Brunello Cucinelli is the ultimate source for a lifetime suit investment. Our top pick from his Autumn/Winter 2023 collection? This traditional brown check set. Assembled in Italy from a quality wool-blend, it’s fitted with generous notch lapels, flap pockets and tortoiseshell buttons across the blazer, and a flattering pleated finish across the front of the trousers. Perfectly printed to the codes of autumn, it’s a seasonal must have if you’re looking to splurge. Jacket, £4,500. Trousers, £1,650. At matchesfashion.com
What do you get when you cross bolts of pure-wool flannel from the Vitale Barberis Canonico mill, with Saville Row level design? This suit from Moss… and a slightly anticlimactic joke set-up. Stitched from lightweight fabric specifically cut for a flattering drape, this suit delivers structure where it matters without any pesky bulk. For strong tailoring sans the designer price tag, you can't go wrong. Jacket, £319. Trousers, £180. moss.co.uk
As if a trad tuxedo suit couldn't get any suaver, Tom Ford adds velvet. In a rich, inky navy hue and fashion's most supple construction, this ‘Atticus’ suit is nothing but opulent, with satin-trimmed peak lapels and a sharp, taut silhouette. Just add some attitude. Jacket, £3,850. Trousers, £1,190. At matchesfashion.com
Designed in collaboration with style-conscious editor Ben Cobb, Tiger of Sweden’s latest collection will bring the perfect amount of opulence to the sartorial section of your wardrobe. Crafted from a rich black velvet, this single-breasted suit is detailed with exaggerated peak lapels, the rims of which are piped with satin for an extra touch of glamour. With the festive party season just around the corner, you won’t find a more eye-catching ensemble to see you through it. Jacket, £1,000. Trousers, £550. At matchesfashion.com
Mens Double Breasted Suits Paris-based brand Husbands has made a name for itself in menswear thanks to its immaculate approach to tailoring. A fine case in point? This single-breasted tweed suit. Designed using a black and white blend of the classic fabric, it's detailed with sharp Roman shoulders, grand notch lapels, horn buttons and internal pockets. Fully canvassed for extra warmth, it's a smart companion to see you through imminent colder days. Check out the brand's heeled leather boots for a flattering base. £1,347. husbands-paris.com